Sewing Neoprene Fabric (Hand, Machine, Needle, Thread, Tips)
You can’t always have it easy. Some fabrics are very easy to sew. But they do not look or perform that well when made into outfits that go outside of their original purpose. That is why you have to do the hard stuff and sew the difficult fabrics if you want the right outfit for your different activities.
When it comes to sewing neoprene, you will want to use a longer stitch length and a looser tension. The latter helps avoid nesting underneath the fabric. Also, use a walking foot as this device helps provide you with an even feed and helps prevent fabric slipping.
To learn more tips on how to sew neoprene, just continue to read our article. It is filled with the information and tips you need to know in order to produce a nice neoprene finished result.
Sewing Neoprene Fabric 101
Tip 1: You will want to use a sewing machine with a walking foot and a big hand wheel. This slows the needle down keeping it from overheating.
Tip 2: Avoid using small, weaker needles when sewing with neoprene. You should use a 16/100 jean/denim needle to avoid breakage and have a sharp point
Sewing Neoprene by Hand
Most neoprene fabrics are thick and this design makes it difficult to sew the material by hand. The 2 mm style may be okay to sew by hand without help from sewing tools but the thicker materials you should use a pair of needle-nose pliers to pull the needle through the fabric.
Some leather workers use a specially designed glove to protect their fingers but if you do not have one try using a strong thimble and then stretch your hands a lot so they do not cramp up.
A long needle is also needed to make sure you get the stitches where you want them to be. If you do not want to put your fingers through all this stress, you can always glue the thicker materials together and save yourself a lot of time and pain.
Tip 3: be prepared by winding 2 to 3 bobbins before you get started sewing neoprene. Also, use a heavy-duty nylon or polyester thread. You can get away with using upholstery thread as well.
Sewing Machine That Can Sew Neoprene
If you are thinking of making or repairing your wet suit or doing other projects with thick neoprene fabric, then you will want a heavy-duty sewing machine to handle the workload.
Your standard, regular sewing machine should be capable of handling the 2 to 3 mm thick material but anything thicker you will have to upgrade and get more power. One with a portable walking foot as standard equipment.
The walking foot slows the machine down by 50% and helps protect the needle from getting too hot. Speaking of needles, some people use a water-based lubricant to help it slide through the fabric a lot easier.
Then you should have more than one stitch option built into the machine. This helps you get the right stitch especially for those pressure points that need extra hold.
Tip 4: when cutting neoprene use a rotary cutter over a regular pair of scissors. This will give you a nice clean edge. Neoprene does not fray so you do not have to hem the material after cutting. Hemming only adds bulk so skip this step.
How To Sew Neoprene With a Sewing Machine
To start, you need to remind yourself to go slow. Neoprene is a very thick fabric and going fast will only harm your needle and slow down your project’s completion time. Use a nice 16/100 denim or jean needle or you can get away with using a heavy-duty size 80.
When it comes to the thread, the stronger the better and upholstery thread is good but polyester or nylon is better. Use a long stitch and a loose tension and you will have to test this out to make sure you get the right settings before you start.
Make sure to have 2 or 3 bobbins pre-wound to make sure you have enough thread on hand to complete the task without too much of a delay.
Tip 5: To waterproof your stitches you can use a fabric tap to cover them up or you can turn to a liquid seam sealer that coats the threads completely and shuts the water out
The Best Thread For Sewing Neoprene
You will want a tough thread to handle this fabric. Neoprene is not a fabric that you can get away with using simple cotton or weaker threads even though they may be cheaper to buy.
A polyester or heavy-duty nylon thread will handle the chore and make sure the fabric does not come apart at those important pressure points. Also, you can use upholstery thread to make sure the fabric stays sealed.
There are a variety of stitches you can use. First, there is the single stitch but it is not good for those pressure points and it does add a bulge to the fabric. Second, there is the flat lock stitch and its main drawback is that it creates a lot of holes for water to seep inside.
Finally, there is the blind stitch which is probably the best option as you glue the seams together first and then use a special needle to get the stitch just right.
Tip 6: When getting ready to work with neoprene, wash it in cold water first. The heat will ruin the fabric so you have to let the material air dry. This will delay your project a little but it saves you time and money in the long run.
Needle Type For Sewing Neoprene
Smaller weaker needles should be avoided at all costs, even when you are only sewing 2 to 3 mm thick neoprene fabric. These needles cannot hold up against the tough material and can easily break.
What you need is a needle that is built to handle thick, tough fabrics like the 16/100 denim or jean needle. This size of needle can handle neoprene with ease and should not break on you as you work.
Or you can go with a heavy-duty needle like the size 80. The stronger the needle the easier the sewing time. Plus, you will have fewer delays as the weaker needles will have you replacing them more often than not.
The right tools always make the job easier and more enjoyable. They will also make the task go a little bit quicker.
Tip 7: When it comes to sewing, do a little testing first on scrap pieces of neoprene. Making sure you have the right stitch length and tension will keep you sewing without interruption.
Cutting And Sewing Neoprene
While using scissors is a natural and common way to cut fabric, you may want to put those down and pick up your rotary cutter when it comes time to do this task. The rotary cutter provides you with a cleaner, smoother edge than regular sewing scissors will.
The good thing about neoprene is that it does not fray. That means you can save a little time and avoid hemming the fabric. All hemming would do in this situation is just add bulk and make the wearer look a little weird.
When it comes to sewing you already have the types of thread and needle sizes to use. Just do not be in a rush and block out enough time so you can slow at a slower steadier pace. Use a good stitch at the pressure points so your project does not come undone at the wrong moment.
Tip 8: When you are selecting your 16/100 or heavy-duty size 80 needle you should get those in a ballpoint style. This design helps to prevent snagging and slipping.
Sewing Neoprene Seams
One tip to sewing neoprene especially for wet suits is to keep the seams away from those areas that require a lot of flexibility. Seams are not flexible enough to handle the stress and strain those areas demand.
We have already given you 3 stitches you can use and there is a fourth that may be of better use than those three. The double-blind stitch is best for those wet suits that are really thick.
When you are done stitching you need to seal those seams so there is little to no water seepage. You can do this by gluing, using spot tape, fully taped, or liquid sealant. Each option has its place and which one you use is up to you, the key is to keep the water from getting in and ruining the suit’s effectiveness.
Tip 9: The purpose and style of the wet suit will influence your sewing options and the amount of material you will need to complete the project
Finishing Neoprene Edges
This is something you may not have to do. Neoprene is more of a knit fabric so it does not fray. What that means is that you can cut your material to size and not include a hem allowance. Saving time is always a big help.
When it comes time to stitch the edges together and form your seams, you do not have to sew if you do not want to. Sometimes a good strong glue will be all you will need although the pressure points and those areas needing flexibility may require adding the stitches we already mentioned.
It is also a good idea to seal the seams and edges to make sure that water does not seep in. There are lots of good products available that can be poured over your stitching and fabric tape to make sure they are waterproof.
How To Hem Neoprene Fabric
This is something you do not have to do as this step only adds bulk and does not contain fraying. Since neoprene does not fray you can get away with gluing the edges together to form a nice fabric line.
But if you insist on hemming use a bias bound style. This works well with neoprene and gives your outfit a nice look. You be the judge as it will be you or your family that will wear the outfit and you get to decide which option is best for your purpose.
Just keep in mind that hemming only adds more unnecessary work and may not do anything to help the durability of the outfit or wet suit.
Tips On Sewing Neoprene Fabric
Here are some more tips that we should not have already mentioned:
1. trim by hand instead of using the knife on your overlock or serger sewing machine. The thickness of the fabric will interfere with the knife.
2. After washing, if you iron, use the lowest setting possible and do not dry the material. Heat is not friendly or nice to neoprene materials
3. When you wash, turn the material inside out to protect it and hang dry it when the washing is done.
4. Besides the needles we already mentioned, you can use a stretch needle because it helps keep the stitches from slipping. Then the special coating on the stretch needle helps it slip through the fabric better.
5. If you are going to sew neoprene fabric that is thicker than 4 mm, you should use an industrial machine. Those sewing machines have the power to get the needle through the fabric and back again.
Neoprene Sewing Projects
The first and most obvious is making a wet suit. The good news here is that you are not stuck with just one style to make. You can make a wet suit vest, jacket, short john, long john. The spring suit, the short arm, and the full suit. To get the pros and cons of these projects just click here.
Or if you prefer to wear masks when going outside, here is a link to 12 different styles you can make with this material. Then if you want to be stylish and wear a nice neoprene skirt here is a link to a free pattern and instructions.
Finally, click this link to get to projects that include neoprene gloves, pot holders, and so on. There are many things you can create using neoprene fabric. You just have to have the right tools, a little patience, and enough time to do them.
Finding Neoprene Sewing Patterns
This should not be too difficult as there are many helpful websites on the internet explaining their neoprene projects and giving you access to their patterns. Your search should be specifically targeting the item you want to make.
Then you can go to your local fabric stores to see what they have on hand or if they can order some patterns in for you. The big box stores should have a supply and selection of good neoprene patterns as well. Their cost may be a bit cheaper than other outlets.
Amazon, eBay, and other online fabric or marketplaces should give you more of a selection to peruse. Finding the patterns that will catch your eye and help you make useful items will be easier than sewing with neoprene.
Sewing Neoprene Repair
One of the best ways to repair a wet suit and if the tear is not that large is to use glue. The first application should be allowed to dry for 10 minutes. Then apply a second layer when that is done. Let this layer dry for two minutes before sewing a blind stitch over the tear.
Before you sew though, you should lay the wet suit out flat and push the edges together so that they are even. Then as a final layer, you can put some fabric tape over the repaired area or use a sealer to make sure water does not get inside.
Keeping the water out is the prime purpose in doing the repair and keeping the wet suit viable and useful.
Sewing Neoprene Not Working
There may be times where your sewing efforts are not successful. The thing to do is go over your sewing process to see if you used the wrong item in the process. Check your thread first to make sure it is tough enough to hold neoprene together. Then check your needles to see if they have broken or bent.
Replace both if those are the cases. Also, your sewing machine may not be powerful enough so make sure you are not sewing the fabric on a machine that cannot handle 4 mm thickness or greater.
Some Final Words
Sewing with neoprene is going to be a challenge, make sure you are prepared for the extra work and get the right tools ready before you start. Also, double-check your machine to make sure it has the power to handle thick neoprene fabric.
Upgrade to an industrial machine to handle 4 mm or thicker and get the project done right.
