What-is-Pocket-Lining-How -to-Fix-or-Mend-Pocket-Lining

What is Pocket Lining? (How to Fix or Mend Pocket Lining)

Pockets are not always given a lot of priority when sewing different clothing items. The reason for that is the pockets are hidden from view and do not usually add a lot to the fashion style of the shirt, pants or suit coat. But getting the lining correct is still important.

How to fix pocket lining? One of the keys to fixing or mending a pocket lining is to determine if the hole is in the seam or in the fabric itself. Once you see where the hole is, then you know what to do to mend the problem. Mending the seam just means replacing the old thread with new stitches.

To learn all about pocket lining and how to mend it, just continue to read our article. It has the information that you need to do the job well. Mending pockets is not that difficult once you know how.

What is Pocket Lining?


Whether you thought so or not, there is actually a fabric called pocket lining. It's just is to line and form pockets so everyone has a place to put their keys, billfold, and other small items.

Generally, it comes in a neutral color as pockets have a more practical purpose and does not really contribute to the overall fashion statement you are trying to achieve. Also, it is broadcloth that is quite durable as well as being inexpensive.

A 15 inch by 2 1/2 yard piece should not be that much and should be about $5 or less depending on the store you are shopping at. The one unique feature about this fabric is that it may be labeled as dry clean only.

Your laundry choice will be up to you. One tip you should try is pre-washing the fabric to see if water laundry will damage it or not.

Pocket Lining Fabric Content


There are probably two keys to finding and using pocket lining fabric or materials. The first one is that it should be soft and smooth. Since the pocket of a pair of pants or shorts may come in direct contact with the skin, you can avoid chaffing by going with this style.

The second key to selecting the right pocket lining content is to think about the user. If they are the type of person who puts a lot of objects into their pockets, then you should select a durable fabric to use.

That fabric should stand up to keys, pens, wallets, fingers and other objects that are routinely and frequently placed inside a pocket. Then matching exterior fabrics is a non-issue.

The pocket lining is not usually visible so you have a lot of freedom to use whatever color or design you think fits the clothing item you are making. When making pockets, this may be an ideal time to get rid of scrap fabrics you have lying around and crowding up your storage space.

Pockets serve a very important purpose so it stands to reason that they be made of top quality material even though they are rarely seen.

How to Make Pocket Lining

Now that you have the fabric it is not that hard to make a pocket. That is essentially what you are doing when you are making a pocket lining. There are a variety of pockets you can make using the pocket lining fabric. Here are two you can follow:

1. Adding a pocket to a knitted garment

If you like knitting and think a knitted shirt or sweater looks good, there is a simple way to add a fabric pocket to the ones you knit. The stitch you can use is called a whipstitch and that can easily be done with a needle and thread.

  • Step 1 - Thread the needle with an appropriate color of thread.
  • Step 2 - Bring the needle through both pieces of fabric. The exterior pocket as well as the pocket lining underneath, going through the knitted material.
  • Step 3 - Bring the needle back to the front in the same manner.
  • Step 4 - Repeat until the pocket is sewn into place and is very secure.

2. Making slash pockets

  • Step 1- Finish the raw edges on your front pocket facings. You can use a serger or a zig-zag stitch to do this. Next, the inner pocket facings need to be interfaced.
  • Step 2 - Sew the pocket facings to the pocket lining. Make sure the wrong side of the fabric faces the interior of the pocket.
  • Step 3 - Place the wrong side of the pocket lining on the wrong side of the outer pocket facing. Then pin in place.
  • Step 4 - Once pinned in place, sew the fabric together about 1/4 of an inch from the edge.
  • Step 5 - Repeat this process for the inner pocket facing. After that, put the inner pocket facing up to the top pocket lining piece. Again, pin and sew about 1/4 of an inch from the edge.
  • Step 6 - Now put the right sides of the materials together and pin in place. Then sew about 1/4 of an inch from the edge. Make sure to follow the curved pattern. Trim the seam then turn the pocket right side out.
  • Step 7 - Press the cloth together and sew at about 3/8 of an inch from the edge.
  • Step 8 - line up the slanted pocket opening with the right pant leg. Make sure to place the right side of the inner pocket on the right side of the pant leg. To prevent gaping, sew some lightweight twill tape onto the seams will stabilize the seams.
  • Step 9 - At this point you will need to stitch the inner facing to the pant leg. Give yourself a 5/8 inch indentation.
  • Step 10 - Next, you need to open the seam and press the allowance towards the pocket bag. Understitch the inner facing to the allowance, then grade.
  • Step 11- Pin the pocket bag in place by pressing the inner face to the inside of the trouser leg. Then pin the pocket bag to the seam and waist and sew with a 5/8 inch allowance.
  • Step 12 - Follow these steps for placing the pocket on the left leg and you should be done that part of making your pants.

How to Fix Pocket Lining


If the seam is the only trouble spot in your pockets, then the mending procedure is quite simple and the sewing quite easy to get done. Just thread your needle with the right thread and sew up the seam.

That is all there is to it for that pocket issue. You will want to use a whipstitch and make about 15 stitches per inch. Then tie a knot in the thread, cut the thread with scissors and the job is over.

If the hole is in the pocket lining itself, then you will need to cut a patch large enough to cover the hole. Leave yourself about 3/4 of an inch extra so you can sew the patch in place.

Any fabric you have on hand will serve as a patch. Just make sure it has the same weight as the pocket lining. Now, place the patch over the hole and pin it in place. You can fold the patch back a 1/4 of an inch if you want and iron the wrong side of the patch.

Fold back the pocket lining so it is level with the patch edge then whipstitch the edges together. Again you want about 15 stitches to an inch and no less than 10. Once you come to a corner, refold the material and continue on stitching.

You continue that process until the patch is in place and very secure. After that, tie your thread knot and cut the thread close to the knot as possible. And you are done.

How to Sew a Pocket Lining

The steps for this procedure are not that long or hard to understand.

  • Step 1- cut two pieces of pocket lining making sure you have room for your hands and give yourself 1/2 extra length on top of that measurement.
  • Step 2 - Mark your pocket placement using notches, chalk or what have you.
  • Step 3 - Pin your pockets in place making sure to match the straight edge of the pocket with the straight edge of your garment.
  • Step 4 - Now you start stitching and make sure you have a 3/8 inch allowance.
  • Step 5 - turn the pocket pieces outside and press them.
  • Step 6 - with the right sides of the garment together, turn your pocket pieces away from the garment. Pin the side seams and sew.
  • Step 7 - flip the pockets back inside the garment and turn the garment right side out and then finish the seams. That is all there is to it.

Mending Pocket Lining


Mending pocket lining is not going to be that hard. It is probably easier to do than sewing the garment from scratch. As related earlier, there are two issues that cause the pocket lining to need mending.

The first issue is that the threads on the seam have come loose and have been pulled out. To fix that, just pull the rest of the old thread out. Then thread a needle with tough thread and sew the seam back together again.

The second issue will require a little more work as you have to place a patch over any holes that have been created by keys or other sharp objects. You want the patch to be about 3/4 of an inch larger than the hole.

This allowance will give you enough sewing room to patch the hole. Sew the patch on and you should be done in about 5 minutes.

How to Repair Jacket Pocket Lining

For holes and seam issues you can use the methods described above. But there may be a time where patching the pocket is not going to work. The pocket lining fabric is worn out and it should be replaced.

Here is the simple procedure to handle replacing a jacket pocket that can be fixed:

  • Step 1 - use a seam ripper and remove the old pocket.
  • Step 2 - using the old pocket as your guide, cut new fabric and get it ready to be sewn into place.
  • Step 3 - fold the new fabric in half and sew up the sides. The stitch you use is up to you but you may want to use a zig-zag afterward to make sure the stitching doesn’t come undone again.
  • Step 4 - pin the new pocket to your coat. Be careful not to push the pins too far where they will come out the front of the coat.
  • Step 5 - sew the pocket to the coat and finish with a zig-zag stitch, again for security.

With that, you should be done.

Use Pocket Lining as Pocket Square


This can be done but you want to make sure that the pocket fabric you use will match the color of the tie worn by your husband or other gentlemen. You can use patterned or solid color designed pocket lining. That choice is up to you to make.

Then there are several folding styles you can choose from. The one you select will be at your discretion as to what looks good as well as stylish. There is a straight fold, one corner fold, and the puff fold.

No sewing is involved in making a pocket square. Plus, you can create one for every tie color your husband owns.

Some Final Words

Pocket lining may be the unsung hero of fabrics. It is never seen yet it does an important job. The key to making a top pocket using pocket lining is to use the right fabric. It has to be soft yet durable. Comfortable yet strong and on it goes.

It is not hard making a pocket out of pocket lining fabric. With a little [practice you can do it like a pro.

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