How Is Fabric Weight Measured? (GSM Fabric Weight Chart)
It does get confusing. The fabric world isn’t always clear when it uses certain terms. Fabric weight does not necessarily mean how much an item weighs but that the cloth for that item came from a piece of fabric weighing that much.
How is fabric weight measured? Fabric weight is measured in 2 ways. Either it is measured through the metric system and it is called Grams per meter or GSM. Or it is measured through the Imperial system and it uses the term ounces per square yard or oz/yd2.
To learn more about how fabric weight is measured and how it affects your sewing projects, just continue to read our article. It gives you the information so you can be on top of the fabric weight measurement and use it to your advantage.
Fabric Weight 101
How Many Pounds is a Yard of Fabric?
Believe it or not, a yard of fabric does not weigh a lot. In fact, some fabrics only weigh 4 1/2 ounces when cut into yards. Heavier weight fabrics weigh around 6 ounces or a little more.
Even a 60-inch wide piece of fabric will only weigh about 5.9 ounces when it is cut into a yard of material. Then a fabric weighing 6.1 ounces per linear yard feels lighter than a fabric that weighs 6.1 ounces per square yard.
How is Fabric Weight Measured?
Fabric weight uses both the metric and Imperial systems. Then sometimes there are those manufacturers that use the linear weight of the fabric and not those two weight measurements.
To convert oz/yd2 to GSM all you have to do is multiply 6.1 oz/yd2 by 33.9057 and you will get the result of 206.82 GSM. It sounds complicated but it is really simple math. Then keep in mind that more countries use GSM than they do oz./yd2 so you may be doing a lot of converting as you continue to sew.
How do You Calculate Fabric Weight From Yarn Count?
The world of yarn has its own vocabulary. They use words like count, tex, denier, and jut count to talk about sizes and weight. There are a couple of equations used to determine the fabric weight of yarn.
For pounds, the equation goes like this: weight in lbs = W divided by 453.6. For GSM the equation looks like this: tex of yarn = weight in grams times 1000 divided by length of yarn in meters.
Fabric Weight vs Thread Count
These two items are not in competition with each other. Usually, the higher the thread count, the higher the fabric will weigh because the material is a lot thicker. All the thread count refers to is how many threads in a piece of fabric per square inch.
Fabric weight is only measuring how much a yard of fabric weighs before it is cut into your favorite bag, blouse, and so on. Fabric weight may indicate quality but thread count is the better measurement for that.
What is GSM in Fabric?
GSM is the metric measurement used by the majority of the countries in the world. The letters stand for grams per meter and the higher the number here means the fabric will be denser or thicker.
A lightweight fabric will weigh between 30 and 150 GSM while a medium weight fabric will weigh 150 to 350 GSM. A heavyweight fabric will weigh over 350 GSM. The 6.1 oz/yd2 fabric measured earlier is a medium weight fabric.
How To Calculate Fabric Weight From GSM
To find the oz./yd2 from a weight given in GSM the equation is simple- oz./yd or OYS = GSM divided by 33.9057. in numbers it looks like this- 350 divided by 33.9057 = 10.32 OYS.
Instead of doing all that math or hunting for your calculator, you can do the conversion using a handy fabric weight conversion calculator. Just click on this link to be able to convert both ways in seconds. Having a little help speeds up the process.
How To Tell Fabric Weight
There is a long process in finding out the weight of a piece of fabric measuring one yard. To start you measure both sided and multiply them together. That result is divided by 1296.
Next, weigh the material and if it reads in pounds and inches, multiply the pounds by 16 then add in the ounces for your total. Now divide that total by the number of yards and you should have your OYS measurement.
Fabric Weight vs Thickness
In this situation, there is, again, no competition between the two. Fabric weight will indicate how thick your material is. For example, a 50 to 150 GSM fabric is considered lightweight, and lightweight fabrics are very thin.
150 to 350 GSM is medium eight fabric and the material is not as thick as heavy weight material and not as thin as lightweight. What that means is if you are not sure how thick a material is, just look at the weight to get an accurate identification.
What is Mid Weight Fabric?
Mid weight fabric is between 9 1/2 to 11 1/2 ounces and it is the ideal weight if you are going to be working with knits. Also, mid-weight fabric is light enough to continue flowing like a lightweight and provides you with an excellent drape.
Plus, mid-weight fabrics are better for structured clothing including pants and leggings. These are more durable materials than lightweight and can take rougher treatment although not as rough as heavyweight fabrics can.
Lightweight Fabric
Normally weighs between 50 and 150 on the GSM scale and it is usually material that flows and has a wonderful drape. You will find them in cotton, rayon, chiffon, challis, lace, charmeuse, satin, and lining.
Most of the lightweight fabrics are transparent and very slippery. You may have trouble keeping them in place when you are trying to sew them on your sewing machine. You do get a lot of bias stretch with these fabrics so working with them is tricky.
What is a Heavy Weight Fabric?
Heavy weight fabrics are going to be over 12 OYS and 350 GSM. The fabrics that make up this category are used to make raincoats and other outerwear items. Denim, canvas, upholstery fabric, poplin, and other similar thick fabrics make up the materials in this category.
Working with heavy materials is a little easier as they are not known for their slick texture. They also handle pins better than lighter weight fabrics do. Most waterproof fabrics are in this heavy weight category.
What is a Quilt Weight Fabric?
This type of fabric is found in the medium weight category. That means its ideal weight will be around 9 to 12 ounces or 150 to 350 GSM. It is designed to be washed numerous times so keeping it clean is not going to be that difficult.
While it washes easily, it does wrinkle a lot and needs more ironing than other fabrics. It is possible to use this material in making clothing but be prepared for extra laundry work.
What Weight Fabric is Cotton?
It is possible to find cotton materials in all 3 categories. The texture and weight will depend a lot on how the material was woven and how many threads per square inch it has.
The heavier the weight the more durable the cotton fabric will be. Medium weight cotton should be soft and very breathable while lightweight cotton is transparent and slick. Cotton is a very versatile fabric that is why it is so popular and used in a variety of sewing projects.
Fabric Weight Chart
Fabric Weight | OZ/SQ YD | GSM | Thread | Needle | Type of Fabric | What to Sew |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Extra Light | 1.5-3 | 50-100 | 80-60 | 60/8,65/9 | Voile, Betiste, Chiffon, Gauze | Blouses, Dresses, Skirts |
Light | 3-5 | 100-170 | 60-50 | 70/10,75/11 | Quilting weight cotton, Double gauze, Ikat, Shirtings | Dresses, Shirts, Blouses, Skirts |
Medium | 5-7 | 170-230 | 50-40 | 75/11,80/12 | Tencel twill, Linen, Cotton, Spandex | Pants, Lightweight Jackets |
Medium Heavy | 7-10 | 230-340 | 50-40 | 80/12,90/14 | Canvas, Heavy linen, Stretch denim, Ponte knit, Sweatshirt fleece | Stretch Jeans, Sweaters, Pants |
Heavy / Extra Heavy | 10-14 | 340-450 | 40-20 | 100/16,120/19 | Canvas, Wool coating, Denim | Upholstery, Coats |
Denim Fabric Weight Chart
Denim is one fabric that is sold by weight and it is not hard to figure out how much a pair of jeans weighs. A yard of 5-ounce denim actually weighs 5 ounces. The scale for denim goes between 5 and 32 ounces with the 5-ounce material the most flexible and the weakest.
A piece of 20-ounce denim fabric is not going to give you the flexibility you want but it will last. The softest denim is on the lighter end of the scale
What Fabric Weight For Upholstery
Upholstery fabric is a heavy weight fabric that weighs more than 350 GSM. It needs to be on the heavy side as usually, it is a material that gets lots of rough use. The fabric has to endure friction, spills, pet accidents, and a lot more.
The good thing about upholstery fabric is that it is tough and durable. It should last you for years if you keep it out of the sun.
What Weight Fabric For Curtains
You are going to find that fabric for curtains is a lot like cotton. It is found in all three weight categories and depending on the style and purpose of the curtains. Lightweight materials can be found in the fabrics made from natural fibers like cotton and linen.
But that category also includes polyester and the many different blends out there. Or you can use a lightweight fabric and only add a lining if you want to block the light. The lining will add weight but it lets you be creative with the lightweight fabrics and really make your rooms pop.
Weight Fabric For Masks
A double layer of lightweight cotton is recommended when you are making face masks. Lightweight allows you to breathe better and the extra layer helps to filter out any contaminants or moisture.
You could do a single layer of medium weight cotton and achieve the same objective so you really have a little choice here in the fabrics you use. Avoid those transparent or sheer fabrics at all costs. Lightweight man-made fabrics are also good for making masks. You can be stylish and colorful if you want as long as your nose and mouth are protected.
What Weight Fabric For Scrubs
The recommended fabric for this clothing item is called ultralite. You want a light material if you are working in hot environments as well as having them be very flexible. With this weight class, you are not sacrificing any breathability and your body should remain cool.
The traditional weight class is medium weight and that is okay also as not everyone is working in a hot climate. You get good breathing ability as well as protection from the air conditioning. Here you have a little choice but do not go with heavy weight fabrics as you will be restricting your movement.
Best Fabric Weight For Slipcovers
For this household item, you want to go to the other end of the scale and choose a medium to heavyweight fabric. Denim is often seen as the ideal fabric for this item and you should not go above a 20-ounce denim fabric.
Find the lower end of the medium-scale and start with that then work your way up to the heavier end of the weight scale. And see which weight of the fabric works best for you and your purpose. Denim is not the only fabric you can use so your selection will depend on your home’s decor and your preferences.
Fabric Weight For Suits
The weight category you select for your suit material will depend on the climate in which you live. For warmer climates, you should be going with a light weight, between 6 1/2 and 8 1/2 ounces or under 150 GSM.
All season suits should have a 9 to 12-ounce weight or 280 to 360 GSM and for colder climates, you should use heavy weight material in the 12 1/2 to 14-ounce weight or above 350 GSM. The type of fabric you use is up to you and the person wearing the suit.
Fabric Weight For T-Shirts
T-shirts have their own weight scale it seems. The lightweight fabric for undershirts or summer wear is down at 5.3 ounces. Then a medium weight fabric for t-shirts should weigh about 5.5 ounces.
If you want a little more durability, a heavy weight t-shirt fabric weighs in at 6 to 7 ounces. These materials will all weigh under 250 GSM. But even when limited to such low weight categories, you still have a large selection of colors and patterns to make your statement.
Fabric Weight For Shorts
This category of clothing is like curtains. You can find material that is good for shorts in all classes of weights. The determining factor will be the purpose of those shorts. Different activities require different durability and you do not want a heavyweight fabric when a medium one is better suited for that activity.
The key here is to know the end use of those shorts before you go out and buy your fabric. Look at the pattern to see what it calls for and make sure you stick to that requirement. Just remember you do not want shorts that rip easily.
Best Fabric Weight For Beeswax Wraps
Lightweight fabric is going to be the best fabric to use in this situation. The specific material you want to use will be cotton. The next best fabric weight will be medium cotton so you are looking at a weight of no higher than about 9 OYS or 250 grams.
For lightweight materials, you want a cotton material that weighs about 4 OYS and that will be closer to the 50 GSM end of the scale. When you get the fabric you will want to use a square, not a rectangle shape.
Fabric Weight For Dresses
Like shorts and curtains, the fabric you use for dresses will depend on the end purpose. You can use light weight for warm evenings, medium weight for all seasons, and heavier weights for the cold months of the year.
Which fabric you choose will also depend on the event you are attending and the climate of your geographical region. You have a wide selection of styles, colors and designs so let your creative juices flow.
Some Final Words
The weight of the fabric will play a role in which projects you choose to do. If you understand oz./yd2 and GSM then you should have no problem finding the weight of the fabric and determining if it is the right weight for your project.
Keep in mind the weight of the fabric is not the weight of the bag or clothing item. It is the weight of 1 yard of material before it was turned into those clothing items.
