How to Make an Illusion Neckline: Sewing Illusion Fabric Tips

Flexibility is always good. You can find a lot of flexibility in different sewing projects if you do the right techniques. Plus, you can go strapless if you use the right neckline. Accessories are also not needed as the right neckline will say more about you than they will.

How to make an illusion neckline: There are a lot of different methods you can use to create a nice illusion neckline. The best way is to create a rolled hem with your serger sewing machine. Another option would be to go to the machine stitch baby hem style.

To learn more about illusion necklines and how to make them just continue to read our article. It explores the subject so you can work with confidence. Your results will vary but we are sure the information here will help improve your skills.

What does Illusion Neckline Mean?


An illusion neckline means you get to highlight your features a lot easier and better. Instead of letting the fabric do the highlighting your beautiful skin will do it for you. You will look more sophisticated as well as elegant when you apply the right illusion neckline to your dress.

Some people call an illusion neckline a yoke or transparent panel. What the neckline comes to being is a delicate mesh that doesn’t block your natural features. It extends from the collar to the bodice and some times stops only at the bust.

One of the great characteristics of the illusion necklace is that it has an unlimited amount of styles you can select from and use to your heart’s content. In the end, what an illusion neckline means is that you can feel your prettiest once it is placed on your dress.

Illusion Neckline Fabric or Material

Most illusion necklines are made from tulle, netting or lace. The fabric is very delicate and you need to be extra careful when putting it on as it can be torn quite easily.

The netting usually is comprised of little diamond-shaped holes and can be starched if made from Tulle. The size of those diamond-shaped holes is not set in stone. They can be larger depending on the neckline’s use and the material used to construct it.

Usually, the illusion fabric is used solely for wedding gowns or veils. The tulle style of fabric has a wide array of uses and both types of material come in different colors although the wedding style is usually in white or ivory.

Because of the difference in color styles, the tulle illusion neckline fabric can be used for costumes, formal gowns and so on.

What is Illusion Fabric?


Illusion fabric is usually made from 100% polyester. That fabric fiber allows the illusion neckline to drape better and feel softer next to the bride’s skin. There is also more flow to the illusion fabric than the tulle version.

The illusion fabric has less body than the tulle alternative which is okay as you do not want a lot of body that will impede your movement on your special day. Of course, if you want a fuller look you may opt for the tulle option over the illusion fabric.

While the illusion fabric is only normally found n different shades of white and ivory you can get it in widths up to 108 inches wide. If you want a nice soft illusion neckline against your skin, you might want to go with the silk tulle.

That fabric version is even softer and more flowing than regular illusion fabric.

How to Sew With Illusion Fabric

Since there are many styles of illusion necklines, there will be many different ways to sew one on your dress. In this section, we will only deal with the baby hemstitch method. It may not be your go-to one but at least it does the job well and makes any dress look good.

  • Step 1. mark where your hemline is going to fall, in this case where the illusion neckline will meet the fabric.
  • Step 2. Then stitch 1/8 of an inch below that hemline using a 1 1/2 mm stitch length.
  • Step 3. Fold the raw edge up over the wrong side of the fabric along the stitch line. Sew another line of stitches as close to the fold as possible.
  • Step 4. take some tiny scissors and trim the excess off. Go as close to the stitches as possible. The thing to worry about here is not to cut the stitches. Also, you need to do the next step right away or the cloth may slip out of the stitches and ruin your work.
  • Step 5. fold the raw edge up again so it is completely hidden and sew a third stitch line. Then press. The baby hem is complete and your illusion neckline should look great.

Sewing Illusion Fabric


To start, look at your needle. The one you use is determined by the fabric you are attaching the neckline to. Not by the material on the neckline. You should use a stretch needle, 75/11, with a cotton, cotton/poly, or polyester thread.

Next, your seam should be very narrow, or the thinnest you can manage. Then the stitch should be a zig-zag style with a 2.0 mm length and a 1.5 mm width. That size should maintain any stretch you have in the fabric you are attaching the neckline to.

Next, after you have finished your stitch, trim the excess and zig-zag over the seam again. Now if you have a serger you can use a thin 3 thread rolled edge to make the seam look good and be strong enough for wearing.

You do not need to use interface for this seam. Oh, and before we forget, pre-wash the lace, net or tulle neckline fabric first. Use cold water only and do not machine dry or use any high temperatures.

That is just one style of sewing with illusion fabric. The key is to remember that the fabric is very delicate and you need a lot of patience and careful maneuvering to get it in place correctly.

How to Make an Illusion Neckline

One of the first things you have to do is determine if the dress is made to accept an illusion neckline. Not all dresses are and there are a few dress designers who will refuse to add one if the dress they have made doesn’t warrant one in their minds.

They will allow you to order extra fabric and lace to create your own and add it to your dress. You can follow the example of using a baby hem to add the neckline to your dress but make sure you have the material to get the task done.

Or you can use strips of beading to attach the neckline and hide any mistakes you may have made. The beading will add a nice fine decorative touch that does not overshadow the look you want.

On complicated dress fronts where there is a lot of decorative designs on the top bust region, you would have to bring the illusion fabric down over the cups and attach it to the less decorative fabric. Lines of fabric can be placed over the top of the illusion netting to hide the addition while not ruining that sophisticated dress design.

Finding an Illusion Neckline Dress Sewing Pattern


Getting a pattern for your illusion neckline should not be left to the internet. While there may be some options available on the different sewing blogs, etc., not all are free and it takes work converting them from digital to real patterns.

The best place to find a pattern that doesn’t need any conversion would be your favorite local fabric shop. If they do not have any in stock they may be happy to order some in for you. Then you can try the national chain fabric and sewing stores to see what they have to offer.

Amazon has a large selection and using the search term illusion neckline pattern you can have a large number of patterns to choose from. The pattern you get will depend on the dress style you are trying to create.

But one thing is for sure since illusion necklines have not gone out of style, you should have no trouble finding one.

Can You Add an Illusion Neckline to a Wedding Dress?

Yes, you can and for the more modest brides who do not want any fashion malfunctions at the wrong moment, they are a good option to turn to. Usually, the illusion fabric is the go-to choice when attaching a neckline to your wedding dress.

This fabric comes in two main colors of white and ivory and several shades of those colors. Of course, with the unlimited amount of styles available you can find one that will fit your wedding dress without any trouble.

The only difficulty will be the cost of adding one if your dress is being made by a professional wedding dressmaker. The other difficulty will be in the attitude of the dress designer as they may not want to add an illusion neckline to their creation.

Other than that, adding an illusion neckline should be easy and bring a more sophisticated and classy look to your gown.

How to Cut Illusion Neckline


Cutting the netting that is already attached to a wedding dress is practically impossible to do. That is because you will be altering the pull on the garment and eventually ruin the look of the dress.

It is better to completely remove the neckline and replace it with straps than to take the chance and cut the netting to how you want it to look. When making your illusion neckline you have to remember that the fabric is very delicate and can be torn or ripped very easily.

One mistake with the scissors and you will have wasted a lot of work. When cutting, you have to cut exactly to the proportions of the wearer and that may make wearing the dress a little uncomfortable and restrictive.

This is not a job that can be done in a few minutes.

How to Finish an Illusion Neckline

Finishing an illusion neckline will depend on the type of material you are using for your dress. It will also depend on the design of the neckline on the dress. You can tailor-make your illusion neckline to fit any style.

Usually, a good baby hemstitch pattern is the best way to finish the outfit. This method takes a little bit of time but it has 3 stitch lines to hold the fabric in place and keep it durable.

It is possible to finish an illusion neckline without using shoulder seams. It will take a little more work but the result may be exactly what you need for the evening. Also, if you are trying to make the neckline appear as if it is not there, make sure to check the color you are using under the same lighting as which you will be seen. Nude does not always blend in with some skin types.

Illusion Neckline Irritation


Unfortunately, not all women’s skin is the same. Those women with sensitive skin may feel the illusion neckline material rubbing their skin and causing them a lot of skin irritation. Don’t feel bad if it happens to you as a lot of women go through this.

If you do not have to wear the neckline and it doesn’t matter to you if you do or not, then simply remove it and go without. But if that is not an option and you want to be seen with the illusion neckline you can try several options.

Rubbing body lotion over the irritated section of your skin may provide the lubrication you need to avoid the irritation. Second, you can try coconut oil as it should not stain your dress while making sure the neckline doesn’t irritate your skin.

A final option may be to rub dryer sheets over the neckline to make it softer. It may help and it may not. That would depend on how sensitive your skin is and these are only a few options you can try.

Can You Remove Illusion Neckline

Yes, it is possible to remove the illusion neckline. You must be careful though as any alteration will affect the rest of the dress and how it drapes over your body. In some cases adding straps should not affect the dress or its look.

Or if you want, you can add a sweetheart neckline and make your dress look a lot more romantic. The key to removing your illusion neckline is to determine if you look better without it or not.

That is also the key to finding a replacement for the neckline. If the alternative does not flatter your body style then you may be better off keeping the illusion neckline in place.

A lot will depend on the design of your dress and if it will accommodate a replacement neckline or more straps. A little research on your part will help you make the right decision.

Illusion Fabric by The Yard


Finding illusion fabric by the yard is about as hard as it is finding a food illusion neckline pattern- not hard at all. If you do not want to leave your house or you can’t leave, the internet will provide you with lots of purchase options.

Amazingly enough, Amazon is not the cheapest outlet to find some illusion fabric. Their prices range between almost $2 to about $16 a yard. Etsy has some even more expensive and can go as high as about $25 a yard.

Depending on the type, color, and design, Vogue Fabric Store online has some that range between $2.50 and $8. You can save yourself the credit card interest and charges by going to your local fabric store or national chain outlet and see if they have any on sale.

Your costs will depend on how many yards you want to purchase and what kind of design, etc., you want to use. Make sure to buy extra just in case the fabric tears or rips on you as you make your cuts, etc.

Some Final Words

Adding an illusion neckline is one way to rally show your romantic side as well as your natural beauty. These necklines are very good at highlighting those features you want the world to marvel at.

The only drawbacks you are going to face will be the cost of the material or the dress maker’s labor; the delicate nature of the fabric; and if the dress you want to attach it to can support an illusion neckline.

Once you do get it attached you should look like the most beautiful woman in the room.

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