8 Types of Twilled Fabric and Names (Helpful Guide and Tips)

Twill is a widely used weave pattern. It is a style of weave and not a fabric type. Its weave is tight but it is still easy to maintain while remaining very durable. Another good aspect of this fabric weave is that it resists wrinkling. There is less ironing to do when you launder twill clothing items.

There are at least 4 twill styles on the cotton side of the fashion world- denim, chino, gabardine, and drill. Wool has at least4 as well-- foulard, surah, gabardine, and cavalry twill. Plus we can’t forget tweed and serge.

To learn more about twill fabrics just continue to read our article. it has the information you need to make sure you are using the right material for your next sewing project. Take a moment or two to get caught up on this important topic.

What is Twilled Fabric?


Twill is not a fabric. Let’s make that nice and clear. Instead, it is a weave style and that style can use different fibers from different groups. You can recognize it from the diagonal parallel ribs.

The weave style requires a weft thread to go under two warp threads then over two warp threads and so on. In doing the weave this way the threads are quite close together making a very durable fabric.

Then the twill style has what is called the technical face and the technical back helping you tell the difference between which side should go where. The technical face would be considered the right side on the visible side of the material.

The visible side has a more pronounced pattern plus it is the most durable of the two sides. Let alone being the most attractive side of the two.

Types of Twilled Fabric


Tweed is a fabric you may already know as a twill fabric but it is not the only one that you will be able to find. Many people do not realize it but denim is a twill weave. That is what makes that version of cotton so tough and durable.

Then there is drill which is another tough cotton material. It can be used for many sewing projects calling for heavy-weight fabrics. Chinos are another member of the cotton family but it is not as heavy-duty as denim or drill is. But the look of chinos is quite masterful when paired with the right shirt.

Gabardine is a nice fabric that comes with an excellent drape. It is best used for suits, more formal dresses, and office slacks. Cavalry twill basically got its name as the material used for that branch of the early armed forces. It is tough and when made from inferior quality fibbers it is not so comfortable.

What is a Twilled Fabric Called?


We did not come across any special name nickname for twill fabrics in our research. basically. Basically, twilled fabrics are known by the term twilled fabrics. But different regions of the country do have different names and it is not to be expected for everyone to know those local nicknames.

Since it is a weave style, the category will have lots of individual fabric names used. People talk of buying a gabardine suit not a twilled fabric suit. Or they talk about buying some new jeans or a jean jacket but they do not say they are going to buy twilled fabric pants or jacket.

The names closely associated with the particular fabric are used which is why many people may not realize that denim is a twill fabric. Nor may they realize that chinos are part of the twilled fabric family.

Twilled Fabric Names


We have given you some names already and they are the most popular names that you would recognize. But did you know that upholstery fabrics were part of the twill category? There are many different upholstery styles but they are made from the twill weave.

Some bed linen styles are also made from the twill weave method. Specific names escape us but bed linens are tough, durable and if made from the twill weave, very durable. That bed linen if twill is probably a flannel fiber. Then there is serge, gabardine, drill, and similar fabrics which are made with the twill weave pattern.

Strong Twilled Fabric


There are a lot of varieties of this style of twill material. Denim, tweed, drill are just 3 of those options you have. There are more with names like serge, chino, and gabardine although the latter is best for suits and not for rough house activities.

You can buy these fabrics at most fabric stores and get an idea of which ones will work best for you, just ask the clerk to show you their selection.

Some Twill Fabric Sewing Tips

  • 1. when sewing lighter - weight fabrics that are made with the twill weave, do not forget the stay stitch step.
  • 2. try using a foot that comes with a dual - feed option. This helps avoid any rippling effect.
  • 3. The best needles to use are, as always, very sharp ones. If your current needle has been used for some time, change it out for a new one.
  • 4. a 0 mm plate is the best option when you do not have any zig - zag stitches to create. This plate keeps the fabric from being sucked down into the hole on other plate styles.
  • 5. A woven interface is the best option to use when sewing twill fabrics. It gives better results and better structure to collars, etc.

Some Final Words

Twill is also a very warm fabric due to the tightness of the fibers. That makes this material better for Fall and Winter as well as those early cool days of Spring. Plus, the fabric is durable so it should last you a long time under the right treatment and care.

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